‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.